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June 11-24, 2008 

 

Due to the deep low pressure region in the US Northwest, we had to alter our travel plans at the beginning of our trip, and after 4 days we are now stuck in Whitefish, MT.


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Arriving in a snowstorm, Whitefish MT.      Stuck in the motel

 

After the snow disappeared in Whitefish and the sun came out again, we finally loaded our bikes and made it back on the roads. For most of our trip across Montana we had the BNSF (Burlington-Northern-Santa Fe) Rail in sight or at least we could hear it. There is much traffic on the rails with 2-3 engines pulling 70-110 cars. We love the sound of the blowing horns.

The first dozen miles or so were a bit uncomfortable because of the heavy weight of the bikes. After Columbia Falls the landscape was great and the climbs not too demanding. We crossed the Flathead River, which was running high. The mountains of Glacier NP were all white and looked beautiful in contrast to the green forest below. In West Glacier we took a motel outside of town. We had no phone nor TV, but from our room we had a great view of the Glacier Mountains.

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Near Columbia Falls

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Bridge over Flathead River

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First glimpse of Glacier National Park

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Glacier National Park


                                                                        Glacier National Park mountain peaks

On 6/14 we had to make it across the Continental Divide over Maria's Pass to East Glacier. The famous and challenging "Going-to-the-Sun Road" was still closed due to snowfall earlier this week. But even Maria's Pass was challenging enough with our loads. Fortunately we had a strong tailwind pushing us up the pass. In East Glacier, we ended up again in a motel we had been in some 15 years ago. That evening we relaxed on the porch.

 

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Early morning riding

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Middle Fork Flathead River

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Waterfall along the highway

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Mountain highway

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Marias Pass

 

On 6/15 out into the "flat" prairies. It started with a killer climb out of a river valley and then the view became wide, very wide. We rolled downhill with a few climbs in between. Browning, an Indian town, was a bit depressing. We stopped at the "Town Pump" for a coffee. Then we continued with tailwind on a wide shoulder towards Cut Bank. Because it was Father's day, it was very calm in town. While picnicking on a shady bank outside the store, we were invited from a man (Harley guy) to stay in a cheap motel in town, run by his girlfriend. The room was very large, but unfortunately had been occupied by smokers before. We opened the door and all windows but were not able to eliminate the odor. Most of the evening we sat on the front porch.

 

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Looking back at the mountains

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This is the prairie!

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Following Hwy 2 and the BNSF railroad

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Grain elevators along the route

On 6/16 we only had a short trip to Shelby, 24 miles away. We reached the town by 10 am. We took a half rest day with laundry, Internet and restocking food. We had constantly westerly winds and the same was predicted on the Weather Channel.

On 6/17 we made it via Chester to Joplin (pop. 210). In Chester I talked for a while with an old farmer. Before we restarted, we ran into a young couple riding on the Northern Tier. That day they were doing a century ride to Havre. Strong!! When we came into Joplin, we found the City Park very comfortable, clean and quiet. We put up our tent in the shade of a few trees and we sat in a brand new pavilion. In the evening a father and son visited us for a longer talk. We polished away a six-pack and had a nice conversation.

 

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Another couple riding the Northern Tier

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Joplin City Park campsite

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Resting in Joplin City Park

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Variable shoulder widths

Next day, (6/18) after a breakfast stop in Rudyard (pop. 275) we made it over plenty of hills (Hill County) into Havre, the first town of any size. In the motel I could use the computer to inform the German friends about our progress. 

 

The next morning (6/19) there was road constructions on Main Street in Havre, which made for a longer detour . But once we were out of town, a unusual strong tailwind pushed us ahead. During a breakfast stop in Chinook we investigated about staying in Harlem, a town right by the Indian Reservation. Everybody advised, not to stay in Harlem, but instead to make it across the Reservation at least to Dodson. Huh, that would be more than 70 miles for us. OK, due to the strong wind, we made it on our own to Dodson. There was road construction for the next 4-5 miles, so a friendly old gentlemen in the store/cafe offered a lift, which was extended to Malta, where we reached a motel after 78 miles.

Next day, 6/20, was a full rest day. Due to the unusually good rainfall this spring, not only were the meadows were wonderfully green, but the mosquitoes were fully active. Every stop by the road was immediately followed by an attack of many of the beasts. We had to buy a can of "Off", which worked well.

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Taking a rest

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Rest stop in the shade

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Having a MIller Lite in the Dodson bar

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This is fun with a tailwind!

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OB's Cafe in Saco

After the rest day it was predicted "tailwind" and temperatures in the 90s. First we planned to go tol Hindsdale (pop.150) and camp in the City Park. During the breakfast stop in Saco, we decided to go to Glasgow, to have a motel room, shower and AC in the heat. This was another 70 mile day. The heat reached 94 F by the time we made it to Glasgow.

6/22 - From Glasgow to Wolf Point was the hardest battle so far. A very strong SE-wind made every pedal stroke hard. In Nashua, our breakfast stop, the owner promised to find a ride for us to Wolf Point among his guests, but we waited more than one hour in vain. Instead it had heated up to 100 F and in the afternoon, a storm front from the SW came closer. When we had checked in the motel, the thunderstorm started with strong wind gusts and hard rain. Puh!!

The next day was much of the same. This time the wind changed to NE, with the same power like yesterday. We made it to Poplar in the Indian Reservation. During breakfast we decided to look ourselves for a lift in a truck to Culbertson, some 35 miles away. There were so many friendly people in town, there should be one ready to give us a ride. But when you stand besides the road and wait for a vehicle, you realize that the majority of them are cars and not trucks, even in this rural surrounding. OK, a good hour later we sat in the truck of "Shep", an old Indian Gentleman, who had served in the Army in Germany and still loves the "Frauleins and Sauerkraut", no kidding. Due to the high gas prices we gave him a reasonable cash.

 

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One of many Beaver Creeks

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Taking a break in the shade

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Escaping the heat during a 90+ degree F day

6/24 - We finally made it out of Montana and into Williston, North Dakota. It started with a light headwind and increased to a stronger SE/S-wind. Even in the morning we were followed by dark clouds. At the breakfast stop in Bainville, people wished us to "escape from the hailstorm" to come. That made our pedal strokes even stronger when we climbed the last two noticeable hills out of Montana. The shoulder along Hwy 2 in North Dakota was in much better condition. With only a few drops of rain on our back we made it into Williston and arrived at our motel just in time to have shelter from the now opening thunderstorm, big enough to be reported on the Weather Channel.


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How true!

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Oversize load

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Waiting for a lift

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Shep delivered us to Cubertson

 

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