We left Marion, KY on Friday, April 15 with good feelings after having received so much hospitality at the "Myer's B&B". Moreover, Peter got an excellent beard trim nearly for free from Emily Shelby, owner of a Beauty Saloon. (Both Barber Shops in town happen to have closed on the same afternoon.) The unavoidable hills of Kentucky soon made for lots of sweat on our bodies. After 10 miles we waited again at the Ohio River ferry, which shipped us into Cave-in-Rock, Illinois

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Ohio River ferry into Cave-in-Rock, Illinois

 

We rode the same roads that we did 4 years ago during our TransAm tour. The sun was burning and we looked for shadow. In Elisabethtown is the nice Rose Hill B&B with the owner Elisabeth speaking fluently German. Just like 4 years ago we stopped to say "Hello". After we had introduced ourselves she remembered us. Soon we were seated on the front porch and filled with coffee and juice. We made conversation with Don, her husband. After some time they offered us a special rate to stay overnight. We could not resist and spent a wonderful afternoon and evening as the only guests with them.

Due to the low mileage we did yesterday, on Saturday we had a goal in the far distance. In order to keep the mileage in normal range, we took a shortcut on Hwy 34 north to Harrisburg. Only 16 of the 33 miles were very hilly, the rest were easily ride able. But in Harrisburg we found that it would be 39 more miles to Carbondale. Although flat, it was right against the wind. We proceeded, stopped in Crab orchard (approximately 100 people) for a cold drink, and ran into a young German lady, who worked in the Country Store. She was from Munich and had a girl friend from Bremerhaven, who also showed up after a short phone call. Together we talked for some time until we had to leave and go for the last few miles into Marion, Illinois.

On Sunday we were out early. The weather was warm but the headwind was blowing again. We reached Carbondale by 10:30 AM and found the city nearly evacuated except around the many churches. We followed Hwy 13 into Murphysboro where we had planned to camp in the nearby Lake M. State Park. It was not to be: The tent sites were some 2-3 miles away from the restrooms and showers and some of the many hills in the park were so steep we both had to push one bike up. So we returned into town and booked a cheap motel.

Monday's weather was also fine. Our goal was Chester and the wind came from that direction. We rode the Mississippi Alternate on very rural roads. We didn't talk to anybody because there was nobody outside. Most of the road was fairly flat except for the beginning and the end of the day. 

 

Mississippi levee near Neunert, Illinois

 

In Chester we stayed (for free) in the Cole Memorial Park under the big pavilion. Our tent was on concrete but with some extension strips I managed to fix it to solid ground. By the pavilion was a water tap and electricity. No showers however and the outhouses some 200 feet away. We crawled into our sleeping bags by 8:30 when the tennis court nearby (and our tent) were still fully illuminated. Fortunately by 9:30 they switched off the light.

On Tuesday morning we were out very early. We pushed the bikes up the hill and into the town of Chester, headed for the Mississippi bridge and made it a second time after June 2001 across it into Missouri. To reach the town of Washington, MO on the banks of the Missouri River (opposite Dutzow on the Katy and Lewis & Clark Trail), I had mapped out a trace over - what I suspected - were small and quiet country roads. We started with US Hwy 61 up north to Crystal City that day. Although very close to I-55 there was much traffic and hills and seldom a shoulder. With rest stops in Sainte Genevieve and Bloomdale we made it into town by 5 PM . 

 

Missouri, land of the Ozarks (hills!)

The next day was even worse. The roads P, A, BB, NN, N, M made for a day rich in traffic and in elevation gain (2,800 ft), while the sun was shining until 3 PM. We were riding between Pacific and Washington with only 10 miles to go, when a dark wall of clouds was in our direction. At 8 miles to go, we made the right decision: Take shelter! Soon after, the thunderstorm started with some heavy wind gusts and a strong shower. Lightening and thunder were impressive. It cooled down considerably. After about 45 minutes the thunderstorm had passed and we took out our raingear. We made the last 7 miles to Washington in a light drizzling rain. The first motel we encountered offered a good rate, so we booked for two nights. During these two days in Missouri we not only received smiles and handwaves from the motorists but also a few "unfriendly greetings", which reminded us of our TransAm across Missouri in 2001.

On Thursday we had a rest day. We had successfully completed the first part of our USA-trip this year. I used the internet for a German report. We changed Maren's rear tire. I fixed the first flat on my bike. And we talked to Reggie from the motel, who not only gave us a lift to the nearest Wal-Mart but also offered to secure our ride on the Washington bridge across the Missouri by driving his car with flashing lights right behind us the next morning.

And so it happened. The bridge was only approximately 700 ft long so there was not a big traffic jam behind us. The weather forecast: Westerly winds, some showers and a severe drop in temperatures. Great!!

 

1)     2)    3)

1) The Missouri River Bridge at Washington

2) Joining the Lewis and Clark Trail. "This is the way West".

3) Rainy weather on the Katy Trail (we had better weather at this point on our Katy Trail trip in 2002)  

 

The first showers came when we were near Peers Country Store. After one hour we continued. There were absolutely no other people on the trail. Except for 2-3 places the trail was in good state. With a few very short shower stops we made it to McKittrick which is just opposite of Hermann. We knew from our maps that there was a B&B in this small village. A helpful lady in Peers had tried to make reservations for us, but there was only the answering machine. So we were very surprised when we showed up at that place, that the owners Maggie and Eldon Meyer were already waiting for us. (They had called back the lady in Peers after we had left.) We were cold and it was wonderful warm inside. It's a place for bird-lovers and on a steep hill. Because of the predicted cold front coming this night, Maggie equipped us each with a warm pullover and a pair of trousers for me. That evening we sat in the kitchen and talked with them.

 

On the front porch of Meyer's Hilltop Farm B&B, McKittrick, MO

Saturday  morning (40 F), blue skies, sunny, strong (I mean: really strong) winds from the West, our direction. We got some extra woolen mittens from Eldon (MFA = Missouri Farmers Association) to protect us from the cold. We passed Rhineland, Bluffton, Steedman (made a rest-stop in front of the closed SOB (Steedman's Only Bar)), passed Mokane and stopped in Tebbets. Many memories back to 2002. Again we planned to stay over night in the Ramada Inn in Jefferson City, state capital of Missouri. With help of a 1-800-number they even supported us with a free shuttle from and back to the trailhead in Jefferson North.

Exposed to the wind, it was ice cold. Over all, these temperatures (in the night close to 40 F and below) are not for camping (at least not for us). Tenting will have to wait until the general level of temperatures will rise again to normal average.

On Sunday we were by 9:20 on the trailhead. The weather was the same like yesterday, including the wind. We stopped at Hartsburg "Cycle Depot" for a warm drink and some talk with the new owners. We stopped again at "Cooper's Landing", (a place we have had a beer outside during our last visit with Mike & Marilyn in 2002 - see photo). This time we stayed inside and had a talk about politics with the owner, who had studied history. Between McBaine and New Franklin we saw quite a few cyclists and we talked with some of them. 

 

In Rocheport we had coffee and a berry cobbler with ice cream outside a little cafe. And then the last 15 miles into Booneville, only 8 of them NOT against the wind. In Booneville we stayed at the Super 8, a very good rate for two nights, because of the predicted rain for tomorrow.

Katy Trail near Rocheport