We have traveled the green distance

When I left the Public Library in Tupelo after having delivered my text for the website, I ran into three young girls having a yard sale near their house. I bought half of a wonderful homemade chocolate cake from them, they wanted a photo from me and also got me web-address. Maren loved that cake so much I had problems to save at least one slice for a rest stop tomorrow.

Sunday came with blue skies again, with sunshine and cool temperatures. We headed out early and made it after 6 miles back on the NTP. That day we came across the Tenn-Tom-Waterway (Tennessee-Tombigbee-W.) At a picnic-site by the NTP during supper a couple came by on a Bike Friday Tandem. Jim & Paula Huter from Tucson, AZ are a few years younger than we but also share the same philosophy of extensive bike riding. We exchanged addresses. That night we stayed at the Tishomingo State Park, where we camped at a primitive site. During the night we were visited by a raccoon who tried to come into one of Maren's panniers (with food).

On Monday we crossed the State line into Alabama. The hills became a little more steep. In order to stock up on food and drinks we detoured a few miles into the town of Cherokee. At Piggly Wiggly Supermarket (not kidding) we stocked up and made it out of town, which appeared to be run down very much. Then six more miles to the rest stop at Colbert Ferry, right by the Tennessee River. There was a "biker-only" campsite. We could use the restrooms (no doors on the men's side) of the National Park Service. That night we were alone in our tent with nobody around us for miles, which was not common for us.

Tuesday morning saw us early up. We had a little breakfast by the tent and then headed out. Many of the white Dogwood Trees were in full bloom. We crossed the Tennessee River and after 12 more miles we crossed the State line into Tennessee. The hills really were steeper than the days before. But we also had a good tailwind that day that helped us. The Huters with the tandem had mentioned a big RV Park with cabins which was not on the maps from Adventure Cycling. That was the place we wanted to stay. But it was nearly 60 miles away. Tenting was $25, and a simple cabin was $40, including tax. After two days of primitive camping the choice was easy. And a weather change was predicted.

And the weather changed that next morning when we just had closed the door of the cabin behind us (from the outside). The first flash of lightning and then rain. We hurried to a nearby Trading Post (now a grocery and diner) and tried to wait out the storm. Then two ladies, one of them running the store and the other working with the RV-Park, helped us to come around. They gave us access to the TV so we could watch the Weather Channel. At 1 PM, when we just had decided to book the cabin for another night, it stopped raining. We rushed out on the bikes in hope to make it 45 miles to Centerville. But after 8 miles it started to rain again. After 12 miles we were soaking wet. After 20 miles it was dry again and we stopped for a few minutes to refresh us with some bananas. We were wet and cold and had still many miles to ride. Fortunately it stayed dry during the rest of our travel.

On the Natchez Trace Parkway after the rain at the last mile before we take off to Shady Grove

Near Shady Grove we said "Good Bye" to the Natchez Trace Parkway to take off 15 miles to Centerville. After approximately 30 miles on the Parkway we entered the only store in Shady Grove to warm up. And I was inquiring for a lift into Centerville. I was successful and that young guy delivered us with our bikes and equipment in his nice Toyota truck right in front of the Days Inn in Centerville. We were very thankful. We checked in for 2 nights. But even after two nights the shoes had not dried out properly. During those 36 hours it rained very often day and night. We could just make it to a laundry and a small Dollar-Shop.

On Friday we wanted to proceed and made it to Waverly. It was cloudy and cool, but dry. We had planned to stay at a place called "Loretta Lynn's Campground and Store" but it was filled with motorcyclists who had gathered for a bike competition the next day. We would not have the chance for a good sleep. So we stayed in town.

Saturday was a wonderful, warm and sunny day. And it dished up the steepest hills of our entire tour up to now! We pushed the bikes up many hills (I more than Maren, but that is normal). But sometimes good things happen, like running into a new little store with cold beverages at a spot, the map did not show. Oh, how wonderful. That night we stayed on a campground near Dover. The people wanted us to put our tent on every spot on their property, except grass!!! It took us some time to get the allowance to put it somewhere near the ditch on grass.  

Dogwoods at the the entrance to "The Trace" Land Between The Lakes"

Sunday was even better. We headed north on "The Trace". That is the only North to South connection in the "Land between the Lakes Recreation Area". Except for a Visitor Station with restrooms and a Coke-machine, there was nothing to find. The hills seemed to be easier than yesterday, also with the help of a good wind. We stayed in a campground after more than 50 miles within the LBL-Area. The tenting area was nice and ON GRAVEL!!! But the night was wonderful silent.

On Monday a weather change was again predicted so we made it only out of the LBL-Area, across the Kentucky Dam and into the little town of Stephensville. There we took shelter in a nice little motel with a friendly landlady named Sandi. She helped us where she could but the laundry was 4 miles away and the Internet 10 miles. In the afternoon a big thunderstorm roared through.

The Weather Channel had cheated us on Tuesday. Despite their warnings it was mostly friendly and dry. And we stayed in that little motel.

On Wednesday was the same forecast and we started. The first 4 miles in light rain. Then it was all dry until the evening. But we had a strong and cold northerly wind against us which bothered us on many of the uphills, Kentucky is famous for. In order to shortcut the way to Cave-in-Rock, IL we took the Hwy 641 via Marion, KY. We arrived there at 2 PM and just showed up at "Myer's B&B". We had stayed there 3 years before during our first TransAm and had very good memories. OK, we got the bikers-rate and stayed with them. He offered free Internet access and laundry service. And my beard needed a good trim. Two nights were booked quickly.

Today on Thursday I sat hours in front of the computer to check the e-mails and to write my reports in German and this text in English.  The forecast is good until Monday, so we can make it at least until Chester. We will follow the old TransAm route until into Missouri.