572 miles / 3213 miles (5135 km) total 

 

After the rest day in Watford City we headed out West on a sunny day with only a slight headwind. We saw the classic Dakota landscape with plenty of green hills. That day we crossed the Yellowstone River near Fairview, MT. This River will be our companion until Livingston. We rode upstream but Wm. Clark sailed downstream in 1806 on their return from the West Coast. That evening we had a room in Sidney but not without having to cycle in a small thunderstorm that passed our way. It was the type that creates much gusty wind but not serious rainfall.

Yellowstone River near Fairview, MT

On Friday we planned to ride to Glendive. It was flat and against the wind. The skies were gray in the morning with some darker clouds in between. Remembering the thunderstorm from yesterday, we took shelter in the Post Office in Crane. We bought several stamps and talked to the postmaster. Because nobody ships postcards overseas from that town, she was not able to sell me stamps for 0.70$. Instead we supported the General Postmaster with two stamps each 0.37$ on each postcard to Germany. 

 

When we arrived in Savage after 20 of 50 miles we planned for a lunch break. We had just put our bicycles on the side of the Bar/Restaurant/Casino when a man came out and asked us about our tour. He wanted to go to Glendive with his truck and offered us a lift. It ended up that he not only transported us easily to Glendive, but he also knew a cheap motel. To show him our appreciation we invited him into a nice Family Dining Restaurant where Maren, to our surprise, was the first to empty her big plate of pasta. (We two men had chosen the same meal.) Fortunately Tom had plenty of time so we learned a lot about a farmer's life out here in the West. Meanwhile the sun had come out so Maren and I enjoyed the afternoon on the front porch of our little motel. 

 

Maren and Tom Hagele in Glendive, MT after lift into town

After Glendive we had to ride the first 17 miles ON Interstate 94. It was not too bad. The shoulder was very wide and clean. The hills were moderate. And the big trucks mostly pulled over to the left lane whenever possible. The scenery was great and the flowers and other plants became considerably more western. That day we made it to Terry. This was a nice little town. To our surprise there was a gathering of people with model aircrafts. On both sides of our room we had people with that hobby. In the evening on the front porch (the best spot for socializing) I got a brief but thorough introduction into the if's and when's of model aircrafts.

View down to Yellowstone River

 

Of the 40 miles into Miles City the next day, we had to cover some 10 miles on I-94. Again it was not too bad. We started with sunshine but when we reached Miles City, a rain front was waiting for us. Politely it started to rain after we had taken a room in a motel. In order to update our website which was overdue, we planned the Monday to be a rest day. And the weather forecast was bad with rain and colder temperatures. (Not again.)

But on Monday the Public Library was closed. After asking around a bit, I ended up sitting in the window of a small computer store on Main Avenue, whose owner allowed me to do my job for about 2 1/2 hours for a minimal donation.

 

Russian Olive on my handlebar

Tuesday started with 20 miles on I-94. The remaining 33 miles were on Frontage Roads. For lunch we stopped in the small town of Rosebud. The only public place was the Bar/Restaurant. The food was not the best but the server and the two other men in the bar fully made up for that. We had a very nice conversation and learned among others things, that this community hosts foreign exchange students from all over the world every year.

 

Peewee and John in Rosebud Bar

The remaining 11 miles into Forsyth were done quickly. In the motel we had chosen we were confronted by a few men with another hobby: Shooting contests with old guns! Our neighbor was an expert and so we got a brief introduction into the if's and when of that profession. Where: On the front porch! Unfortunately those 9 men gathered to talk seriously about their hobby around our neighbor's room door after we went to bed. But when I looked out of the door after 10 PM they understood and disappeared into their own rooms.

The next day was sunny and warm. After a big breakfast with our new friends from the gunshoot-party in a nearby cafe, we headed out. First it was 28 flat miles close to the Yellowstone River on Frontage Roads. Then lunch break in Hysham. When we entered the little cafe in town and ordered, the server immediately recognized us: "You must be from Germany!" We found out that her mother came from Berlin some 48 years ago and still speaks with that special accent she found with us. 

 

After 'spaghetti with green beans' we headed out for Custer. Adventure Cycling had just found another route to Custer avoiding I-94. This was beautiful. Paved, traffic-free, some small farms and hills. We loved that section of about 24 miles very much. 

 

Lonely, lovely valley between Hysham and Custer

 

Unidentified snake in the grass

 

After a short steep climb and descent we arrived in Custer by 3 PM. We headed into the cafe for some refreshment. We had decided to try to make it as close to Billings that day as possible. So we asked around for a lift (with payment) to Pompey's Pillar (22 Miles). From there we could easily make the last 10 miles to a small motel in Worden. I was still drinking my milkshake when the door opened and a man our age came in and offered his service. While I paid our ticket for the drinks, another young man appeared and also offered his services! We had agreed with the first man so we had to send the young guy home. 

 

Within a few minutes we had loaded our stuff in the rear of the truck and off we took. 30 minutes later - at the foot of the 'Pompey's Pillar National Historic Landmark' - we reassembled our stuff. We both walked up the stairs to see the inscription of William Clark etched into the sandstone while the friendly staff from the BLM watched our bikes. They also offered their service to call the motel (only 4 rooms) to make reservations for us. Those last 10 miles into Ballantine (near Worden) were fast due to a strong tailwind.

 

"W Clark   July 25, 1806"

 

Next day we were looking forward to Billings, a real town. But the closer we came, the more dangerous the traffic became. Even on a three lane road there seemed to be no space for us, so we made it into town mostly on the walkways. We were so disappointed and found the price level of the motels far beyond the quality of the rooms that we finally took a Motel 6 close to the Interstate. There was no chance to walk back into town to do some sightseeing. But instead 'Mother Nature' entertained us that evening with a storm front coming across from the west, which contained 3 thunderstorms. Pretty impressive.

The next day's first 10 miles was along a Frontage Road with much traffic. But once we reached Laurel, things cooled down (not the temperatures but the traffic). The landscape became more mountainous and we could see the first snowcapped mountains. We made a lunch stop in Park City in the city park. 18 more miles brought us to Columbus. That afternoon on the shady front porch, we were talking with an old gentleman from Wyoming. He had been a Marine for many years. That discussion about politics and the U.S. and war was very interesting. He had been in Germany several times although he was of Dutch heritage.

There was one thing that amazed me always: Very many Americans have been in Germany for a shorter or longer time. They all praise my country as being 'wonderful, beautiful, clean etc.'. Do they only want to be polite to me?

Anyway, Saturday morning with sunshine saw us on the road again. 9 miles of Frontage Road and 9 miles I-90 brought us to Reed Point, a typical small bustling Montana town, that knows how to preserve the old stuff to please the tourists. This second breakfast helped us the next 24 miles into Big Timber. 

 

I-90 near Big Timber

 

Evening on Main Street in Big Timber

 

West of Billings, the traffic on the Interstate was no longer relaxed. Many RV's were on the road trying to make it up the long ascents with no time to pull over for two cyclists. But we did not feel endangered, just uncomfortable. We stayed in an old motel at the edge of town. We had a long way to walk to the groceries but only a few steps to see the beautiful valley and the snowy mountains in the evening light.

 

Sunday was a short one with only 40 miles to Livingston. We had to ride on I-90 twice for a few miles. It was during one of these rides that we saw two cycle tourist on the other side of the Interstate. We could only wave. There was no chance to cross the 4 lanes and the ditch safely. We arrived by 1 PM and were happy to get shelter from the sun. In the afternoon, after a refreshing shower, we walked into town. We found a cafe where we could sit outside in the shade, something we had missed so long. In the evening, sitting on the porch, we talked extensively with a couple and their daughter from Minnesota on their way back from a wedding party near Missoula. They quickly realized that we must travel on a bicycles, because there was no car in front of our room. 'She' had traveled from coast to coast some 30 years ago on a bike with her roommate from college. It was during this trip in Minnesota that she met her husband. We spent the whole evening with them and went out for dinner.

(continued on next page)