June 15, 2001.
Clay, KY to Cave-in-Rock, IL (36 mi.) Mile 1170
Across
the Ohio River to Illinois

We
made it to Illinois, but no farther today. We began with breakfast with Peter
and Maren at the local cafe; Peter picked up the tab when we weren't
looking. The Helms also gave us a farewell gift of some of our favorite crackers
and bananas, and we gave them the last can of beer. Everyone exchanged
addresses, hugs, and wishes for a safe journey, then Peter and Maren took off
ahead of us for a motel in Marion, where they intended to stay for a few nights
to take a rest day. They have been very good travel companions, and we hope we
might see them again. It was emotional to say good-bye.

Peter and Maren
leave the Clay Fire Station
It was after 10 am when we finally
left Clay. As we pedaled toward Illinois, we wondered if the headwind would blow us
back to Virginia. The farther west we went, the more ominous the weather
appeared. Suddenly our concern turned to alarm as the sky darkened to an inky
gray and a cloud shadow raced toward us down the road with a visible rain front
close behind. We barely had time to pull out our rain jackets and get our bikes
under the trees when it hit.

"Ut-oh!"
This storm front raced down the road toward us at about 20 mph or more, with the
rain following it in the distance.
We made a run for the
shelter of a farmhouse carport down the road but were still soaked. It took
about half an hour for the rain, thunder, and lightening to move on. When it
did, blue sky returned, and the landscape was fresh and clean
again.

After the
storm Amish farm
land
We took a detour
through Amish farm land on the way to the Ohio River. This road is closed on
Sundays for the Amish. The asphalt down the center of each lane is pitted and
scratched from the horseshoes of the Amish draft horses. An Amish woman waved
at us, and two Amish men in a hay wagon pulled by two big draft horses waited
patiently for us to pass so they could clop down the road behind us. Out of
courtesy, we did not aim the camera at them. We found that while we were
cycling this peaceful route, our pace relaxed and the stress of making good
time or worrying about traffic lifted.
Looking over the
Ohio River to Illinois, waiting for the ferry. The third touring bike belongs
to Donald from Quebec City, who is going our way and whose path has crossed
ours many times.

On the ferry,
crossing the Ohio river
When we crossed the
Ohio River to Illinois, another storm front blew in and we ducked under the shelter
of a picnic pavilion at Cave-in-Rock State Park just as the rain poured down.
When it subsided, we saw a man walking toward us, obviously trying to
communicate something. Just as we had when first approached by Peter Helm, we
were a little confused, until he showed us his bicyclist tan lines. Ah,
another bicycle tourist! His name was John Poole and he and his wife Karen
were sharing a camp site with Ben, all of them cycling the TransAm route west
to east. They were making about twice the daily mileage we have been making. We decided to
spend the night at the campground too, where the showers were great. We all
went out to dinner at the park Lodge, where the company was much better than
the food, and talked about those things of interest to bicycle tourists: hills, dogs, places to stay, and
anything else of humor or
interest that has occurred to us on our bicycle journey so far.