June 7, 2001.
Buckhorn Dam Campground to Irvine, Kentucky. (60 mi.) Mile 800
Beginning
to leave the hills and rain behind...for now
Breaking camp at Buckhorn Dam
Campground
We
got a late start breaking camp (things were pretty soggy) and just figured on
taking the day as it came. We thought we would "outlaw" camp if we
didn't make it to the campground in about 80 miles, or the motel in 60.
Just about noon we were caught in a
thundershower and sought refuge at Vincent, an intersection with a small
take-out food place and a post office. We must have spent almost two hours
there, drinking coffee, chatting with the postmaster, and waiting for the rain
to ease up.
Chatting up the Vincent
postmaster
We have found a good way to start
conversation in this neck of the woods i
s to bring up the late NASCAR driver
Dale Earnhardt, whose picture is everywhere. This breaks the ice, initiates an
animated conversation about sports, and gives us more insight to the people
and area. The postmaster started by telling us that Dale Earnhardt is a
significant hero and role model for the youth in this area. This might explain
the driving habits of some of those passing us. He went on to tell us that we were riding through the poorest
county in the U.S. Over 75% of the population receives some sort of
government assistance, 25% of the population is illiterate, and there are
third and fourth generation families on welfare. There is a pervasive sense of
apathy and disinterest in education in this county. Those with incentive bear a
heavy tax burden.
We had noticed some of this apathy and disinterest in the
people we have encountered, though all have been hospitable. We had also
listened to other Kentuckians who were disturbed by this, the roadside trash,
the economy, and the welfare culture. This year the tobacco crop is suffering
from the wet cool weather, imposing an additional hardship on the local
economy.
Finally the storm passed and we
rode off through a wet landscape. Streams and waterfalls were full and noisy,
looking like chocolate milk from the recent downpour. Just when we were
convinced we would not make it to any campground or motel, the hills started
leveling out, and we breezed along for many downhill miles, sometimes on smooth, new
pavement without
any traffic The scenery got better and
better.
1) 
2) 
3) 
1) Rain soaked countryside
2) Heavy rains produced local flooding and turned rivers brown
3) Riding through the jungle
landscape
It is a motel for us tonight, and
that means a phone line for the computer. We had ridden 60 miles on only one
meal, so first order was to find food. Across the street is a Family Style
Buffet. We walked in just as they were closing up, but they urged us to stay,
saying they would only charge us half price. We had the whole smoke-free place
to ourselves, all-you-can-eat, Hog Heaven!
As for Walter, he was last sighted
ahead of us taking a short-cut to Berea earlier in the day. Wherever we stay,
we hear of a German couple riding our route two days ahead of us, but they
were here last night. Maybe our paths will cross with theirs too.
Brake pads are on their way to a
post office a few days away. All is well this evening.
