July 28, 2001. Missoula to Lolo Hot
Springs, Montana. (41 mi.) Mile 3449
To Lolo
Hot Springs
In leaving Missoula we backtracked
12 miles along busy U.S. 93 to Lolo, then turned west to cross Lolo Pass, an
ancient Indian trail across the mountains, the route used by Lewis and Clark
in 1805, and Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce in 1877. A stormy low pressure
system blowing in from the west met us head on as soon as we turned in that
direction. The gusting headwind was strong enough to bend the trees and raise
concern that I might be blown over again with my panniers and top-heavy
handlebar bag arrangement acting as a sail. At times I got off my bike and
walked when the wind was the strongest until I could rearrange the baggage
with Mike's help. We had gone overboard buying groceries in Missoula and were
carrying a lot of extra weight.
Lolo Pass is scenic but winding and
narrow without significant shoulder, though significantly improved from two
centuries ago, when it was described as one of the most challenging
passageways over the Rockies and one of Lewis and Clark's most formidable
barriers. Needless to say, we also made slow progress against the wind to Lolo
Hot Springs resort and campground, where we pitched our tent. These hot
springs had been used for many years by the Indians before Lewis and Clark
made note of them in their journal. Over the years the hot springs have seen
many owners, visitors, and various exploitive developments. Today there is a
restaurant, lodge, swimming pool, and campground at the site. Our closest
encounter with the hot springs was noting that the water from the springs is
used to flush the toilets in the lodge. We ate our dinner of the groceries we
had packed and went to bed early.
1) 
2) 
3) 
4) 
1) Missoula's Saturday Market was
just starting when we rode out of town. A good selection of fresh vegetables
was a rare commodity along parts of our route, especially in the small town
groceries in the east.
2) Colorful bee hives on Lolo Pass.
The sign says "Bee Crossing".
3)
Heading up Lolo Pass, eastbound Eric Thomann has toured
all over the world on his 35-year-old 3 speed bicycle.
4) The tacky Lewis and Clark Bumper
Boats at historic Lolo Hot Springs
